A Day In the Life Of...

The thought of weeding through/uploading photos from the past week sounds a bit taxing (LIFE IS SO HARD) , so I thought it would be fun to switch it up and do a post about the everyday things in Thailand that I have (somewhat) become accustomed to.

Here we go, in no particular order!

...Interesting Bathrooms
I have had pretty standard bathrooms where I've stayed so far, though it still took me some time to get used to the layout. This is especially because there is no bathtub/barrier between the shower/toilet/sink.

My super fancy bathroom in Chiang Mai

This means that everything (like the toilet) end up soaked after a shower. I at least have what is called a "western toilet," which is what we are all used to back in the good old US. The only difference here is that you have to throw your toilet paper away as garbage due to septic issues.

There's also another hose (not in this picture, it's to the left of the toilet), lovingly labeled the "bum gun" by an Australian blog I found when I googled "What is that hose for next to my Thai toilet?"...

It's pretty much a more portable bidet, but you have to be careful about the varied water pressure between bathrooms. Eek!

Then you have your standard Thai toilet, i.e. a "squat toilet," which is pretty much a hole in the ground. Apparently these are very good for your body physically speaking, and there is no flushing mechanism, so you have to shovel water into it for a manual flush.

These toilets are very common in less touristy places. If you luck out and find a western toilet, it's probably going to be covered in water (well, it just seems like all surfaces in bathrooms end up covered in water). This means that I have learned to not sit down on toilets when I'm away from home!



Crazy Roads and Drivers
Driving on the left side of the road was easy enough to get used to, but I'm still adjusting to how recklessly people drive. Part of the problem is inexperienced tourists on a rental bike. Scooters are also the primary form of transportation for Thais, who zip in and out of mass traffic, rarely wearing a helmet. Sometimes you'll see an entire family crowded onto a scooter. Once I saw one packed with 6, including 2 children and one baby.

Unfortunately I haven't been able to snap any of these ridiculous events, so this photo will have to do.

Think you've got the green light at the crosswalk? Think again. Always look five times before you cross, as it seems like at least one lane of traffic isn't paying attention, or just doesn't care. I am still working on being as brazen as some Thais I've seen crossing highways with no crosswalks.

There are also some very windy mountain roads. I took a minibus to and from a city called Pai for Thanksgiving, and there are 762 (many sharp) curves along the way, almost causing quite a few army boys to barf.

The road statistics speak for themselves, but I wont spit them out here because I don't want it to scare anyone away from choosing their own mode of transportation. Just educate yourself and remember you have to focus about 1000x as much as you do in the states. It's a stunningly beautiful country to explore, and there is no freer way to do it than on your own terms.

Cost of Living
One of the top reasons I came to SE Asia was because I knew I could get much more bang for my buck than most places on the planet. Prices listed here are from Chiang Mai, which is a bit less expensive than Phuket was.

My concept of money has been completely warped, where sometimes I'll fight with a tuk tuk driver over 20 cents, then later that day spend $5 on an entree. Generally speaking, when away from the more touristy restaurants, I can leave spending less than $2-3 for a meal plus a non-alcoholic drink. For example, this bowl of delicious soup I had tonight cost $1. (PS I'm pretty sure I just found my new favorite noodle soup spot).

I followed it up with a GIGANTIC smoothie, made out of the water/meat of an entire fresh coconut, a whole mango and a quarter of a pineapple for $2.

What isn't (relatively) cheap is alcohol. In a restaurant you'll spend around $4 on a cocktail or large Thai beer, which is a lot when it's 2-3x as much as your food. You can find it for a little cheaper at a store, but in relation to the cost of other things, it's not very affordable.

The government also has imposed restrictions on when alcohol can't be sold at a store, which is between 2-5pm and midnight-11am, though this is only really enforced at major chains.

I paid about $300 for a month at my guesthouse - I have a queen sized bed, private bathroom, fan, TV, fridge, wardrobe, desk and a deck. I could even find cheaper accommodation, or pay a couple extra dollars a night for air conditioning.

I used to feel weird using a laundry service, but at about $1.30/kg for someone to wash/dry/iron your clothes, I have given in. This translates to about $2-3 a week.

Want a full body Thai massage? $6/hour. Seriously.

Beauty Standards and Sex Tourism

When I first got here, I was shocked at how many beauty products contain whitening agents. Sunscreen? Check. Deodorant? You bet. Shaving Cream? Of course. Having white, milky skin is an aspiration for women, which is quite the opposite of the tan obsessed American culture. I fear what would happen if I started using these products as I am very pale already. As my friend Kim said, "Girl, you'll turn see through."

The reality of the societal construct makes me sad. Thai women and their natural skin color are so beautiful to me. I understand proactive measures for protection, but dislike the thought of changing what is natural, which is also an issue in communities of color in the US.

Then there's Thailand's very public sex tourism problem. There are bars that line the streets of Chiang Mai full of young Thai women flocked around (usually much older) male tourists, either there to find a wife or a prostitute. I try to not judge when I see this "type" of pair walking down the street because I know that a) some of them are completely normal and/or b) there are people who come to Thailand (or any country) and fall in love without planning or fetishizing it. But there is a harsh reality to why some people visit, which is especially hard to ignore when you see great grandpa walking down the street hand in hand with an 18 year old.

There's also the fascinating arena of ladyboys (in Thai they call it "kathoey")... some of who are so convincing I can't even tell that they aren't "real" women, whatever that means. I've always been fascinated by human sexuality and kathoey doesn't fall into the "standard" definitions of trans, so I can't wait to get more exposure as I travel. Outside of the realm of sex tourism of course.

And then finally there are two subjects I wont even broach - ping pong (and other various object) shows and pedophilia. Yikes. I haven't witnessed either (unless the women noted above are below the age of consent) so I don't want to comment.

Political Activism
Though America has a considerably larger population spread over a MUCH larger area, I think we could learn a bit from the power of Thai protest. I'm not talking about overthrowing the current government, but more being able to band together and not back down to pressure in order to make change.

In 2006 it was top news worldwide when there was a coup in Thailand as they ousted the government and former Prime Minster, Thaskin Shinawatra. The country is divided into two, with large protests in 2010 and oh yay, right now. I only have a slight grasp on the current conflict, but the current Prime Minister (Yingluck Shinawatra) is Thaskin's sister, therefore it is thought that she is her brother's puppetmaster and the same people are still in power. Her party recently tried to introduce an amnesty bill to bring Thaskin back into the country (he's currently out of the country to avoid a jail term) and this re-sparked tensions.

I hear that tourists haven't been impacted by the main protests in Bangkok, and recently polled Thai's noted that their largest complaint/concern right now is the traffic it is causing. 23 countries have issued travel warnings about travel to Thailand, but I'm really not sweating it. I will keep a close eye on it when I go to Bangkok next month - just always be vigilant and educated, and I think you will stay a safe traveler. Just don't wear any red or yellow shirts right now in Bangkok or you could be viewed as a supporter of either side.

----

There's of course a lot more that's unique about being here and so many other facets of the culture and language I haven't touched on or experienced. I sadly haven't picked up much Thai yet (sorry dad), but it's beyond complex.

What hasn't changed is that I can pretty much get anything here that I can get in the states - I am still amazed at the variety of cultures restaurants cater to. Like, oh crap, I can still find amazing CAKE on the side of the ROAD.

And I even found Tree Top apple juice (where my mom works) in a tiny mini market in Phuket.

With all of this at my fingertips, do I want to come home? Hell yes! This makes me appreciate and miss home more than anything, but I can't wait to keep on exploring, learning and growing while I have the opportunity.

-Erin

"Sawadee Ka" to Soi Dog and Naiyang Beach

Like "aloha," the Thai word for hello and goodbye ("sawadee-ka" for women, or "-krap" for men) is the same. It provides a circular openness so while I'm on my way out, this journey is only beginning.

With Komarn on my last day

Leaving the shelter was hard yesterday, and I cried like a baby when I walked into run B2 for the last time. I cried because I would miss them dearly and I couldn't take all of my companions home with me. I also didn't want to think of the reality that if there weren't enough volunteers, they would not get the same amount of daily attention.

Everyone kindly comforted me and told me that I would come back to Soi Dog, and it would be easier the next time. That I would see that the dogs continue to endure as they did before... and they are right. You can't turn your back on a place that changes your life.

It is a ripple effect with the dogs. Gain one's trust and another is sure to follow, especially if they are bonded to each other. Remember those beautiful shy white dogs? The sweet, yet timid, Chocolate showed them that I was trustworthy and I walked one of them on my last day. It was one of the first times a volunteer had ever walked her (Rabbit) - she didn't move very fast or go very far, but enjoyed sniffing her way slowly through the foliage. Hunde started to howl in excitement for me every time I'd walk in. Iggy learned to savor a massage. Purdie, Singto and Soldier remained untouched, but they would at least tolerate me in the area without running away near the end. All 15 of these dogs has a story of growth and touched me deeply.

Today I took in some sun at the beach and reflected over the past few weeks. I keep telling myself that I haven't done very much, but I came to realize that I have. No, I didn't get a better handle of the Thai language like I hoped I would, or explore the entire island.

But I've seen amazing sunsets and storms, my little beach town flood, snorkeled in paradise, and visited Patong and Phuket Town. Most importantly, I've met lifelong friends and basically became a part of a pack of dogs, while hopefully making an impact on their lives. 

They have certainly transformed mine.

I have started to feel a calmness inside of me. Since I parted ways with Darryl and felt an overwhelming amount, I felt a little void of emotion. It was like I wasn't truly processing things as they came at me as I was still wrapping my head around the foreign feeling of being alone in a strange place.

This place, the people and the animals changed this. Seeing an almost happy family form in B2, with the dogs starting to frolic, play and be dogs warmed my soul. I realized this anxiety I felt too frequently is almost gone. I can live and enjoy the moment, and if needbe, take sadness in it. 

It doesn't hurt that I have few of the normal outside pressures of life, but it is important to learn and remember what it feels like without the daily rush. The only thing I am really anxious for is for Darryl to come visit.

It's a really nice feeling.

Tomorrow I head for Ko Lanta for a few days, where I will continue my "pursuit of calmness" with daily yoga on the beach and continuing to walk dogs at a bungalow called Time For Lime. They do great work and their proceeds go to Lanta Animal Welfare.

As one last monster storm rolled in during dinner tonight, the booming thunder, rain and wind enveloping me, I felt satisfied with I have done, and I'm beyond excited for what's ahead.

-Erin

Naiyang Temple Hospitality and Our Private Island

The old saying goes: "Behind every 7-Eleven, you will find the temple of your dreams."

OK, not really, but last Sunday, Amanda and I decided to rent a scooter and explore the Naiyang Beach area a little more. It cost about $7 for a whole day (split between two people), so we braved the insane Thai roads and headed a few minutes away to the nearest temple, which does happen to be right behind the local 7-Eleven.

The temple property is perfectly manicured and most buildings are ordained in gold paint, with many shrines and statues.

The first building we managed to walk into hosted a group of praying monks and devotees. I couldn't remember the etiquette behind taking photos of monks, so I took a shot pretty far away. They started chanting and we believe they were blessing their food for lunch.

After their blessing was complete, they walked out of the room to go eat. A monk came by and gave me this pomegranate. Hopefully eating it helped purify my soul. ;)

We were surprised when a group of locals sitting on the floor insisted that we come over and share a meal with them. I have no idea what we ate, but most of it was spectacular and made at home by the woman in the right of the photograph below.

These coconut gelatin..balls... changed my life.

They warned me that one of the dishes with spicy, and those that know me know I have a very low spice tolerance. I decided to brave it and promptly felt my face catch on fire. I knew it would be rude to not finish my plate, so I sweat through the rest of it.

Even with a serious language barrier, there was something intimate about eating a meal with new people and not much has to be said. I am not sure if it is normal custom or an obligation to invite us, but it was a unique experience. Unfortunately they definitely understand the word "shit," as I accidentally exclaimed that when I dropped some food on the ground.

Shit. Need to work on my temple manners a little bit.

Many people dump pets at Buddhist temples as they see it as a safe haven where animals will be fed. This is true to an extent, until the population becomes unmanageable by the monks. I don't think this is the case in Naiyang, but animal welfare organizations frequently have to step in at temples in larger cities.

Lunch wrapped up and we thanked the group for their kindness (khob kun kah!) and wandered the rest of the grounds.

Something very strange happened at a few locations, including the one in the next photo. When I got too close, my camera could only capture blurry photos. Amanda's wouldn't even take photos. I can't find anything on the internet about intentional interference at temples, so I'm not sure what happened.

I had to walk back about 10 feet to zoom in and capture this picture

With our bellies and spirits full, we drove (scootered? LOL) to an end of Naiyang Beach that we hadn't explored yet, to try to walk to a small island that is visible from the restaurant we dined at many nights.

Construction on these condos was abandoned for an unknown reason in 1990. They are now home to thousands of snakes.

The tide was fairly low so we were able to wade out and be the solo inhabitants of the island.

Wading

Hermit!

It was fantastic to finally explore the spot I'd stared at for weeks. We left just in time as the tide was coming in... if we'd left any later, we would have had to either wait it out or swim to shore.

Beach dog

-Erin

Soi Dog Day 1 - Puppy Party, the B2 Run and Kitties

Today I was picked up around 8am and got home around 6pm. I shared my ride with an older Australian couple and a young Norwegian couple (both had already visited the shelter previously) who were staying at nearby resorts. 

The dogs were separated into multiple areas and runs based on their age and level of socialization. Some of the shy dogs were put into the old dog or puppy areas because they managed better with this type of energy. Also on site are the main veterinary clinic, sterilization clinic, and an entire building dedicated to cats, but there weren't as many cats as they are adopted more frequently. Finally, there were newly built apartments for the Burmese refugees who also help out with the animals.

After a tour, the coordinator, Diana left me in the puppy area. It is exactly as one would envision it... I opened the gate and a swarm of wiggly puppies came running at me. I forgot how mouthy puppies are and immediately my shoelaces, pant bottoms, camera string and anything else they could get their mouths on were being tugged on. Sorry for the photo overload but OMG PUPPIES

Don't eat the camera!

It might look like black plastic tubing but those are my legs

This black lab (?) couldn't get enough kisses 

This white/black puppy was long and stout, like a wiener dog blue heeler

IT'S SO MUCH WORK GROWING UP

There were some shy dogs in the run, and one of them played mother to the puppies. I couldn't help but feel a little sad realizing that this was their optimal chance for adoption and as they grew larger, they would be looked at as less desirable. But I tried to focus on puppy time. I walked out of there completely covered in dirt and sweat - I guess I'll be needing to do laundry more than I expected.

The dogs have much more space than most shelters in the US, and they hose down their areas every morning so there isn't much waste. It's a constant juggling act to keep the dogs in runs where they all get along - fights do break out, but the employees there have an amazing command of the dogs. Today was hot and sunny so the other volunteers spent the day socializing and walking the dogs.

At one point I asked Diana what had happened to a few of the dogs (missing legs, eyes, etc. were common) and she told me that she didn't know because she herself had to stop asking. She simply stated that she wanted to last at the shelter as long as possible - as much of a fantastic operation as this is, it takes its toll.

After lunch (they pick up local Thai food - I paid $1.50 USD for veggie fried rice and a coke) Diana sent me to run B2, as they felt it had good dogs for a beginner like me to deal with.

This is my view from a bench under shelter. You'd think the dogs would all flock to the shade, but many hang out in the grueling sun.

Some of the dogs were quick to greet me, others cowered away. My job at this point was to just sit and let them come to me as they were comfortable, and take notes about how they were doing. I will continue to take notes during my stay so that the shelter has valuable information for potential adopters about how they grow with socialization.

I went through the list of dogs in the run and tried to evaluate how each interacted with me. It was an intense hour - the ones who wanted attention and love were the easy part, not so easy was seeing the pups that would hide in the corner. Both of the three legged dogs in there were hungry for attention, one of them almost quicker at running than the other "normal" dogs.

3 legs and faster than the pack!

I thought at first this girl would not warm up to me, but once I sat down next to her she loved a good cuddle

Goal is to get this lady and her twin to trust again

I ended my day with the kitties - there were only 5 that were able to socialize. Again, the three legged cat was the fastest of the bunch! I didn't have a chance to ask if they were all full grown, but I think cats here are just smaller. A few were definitely kittens. They were all extremely friendly and loved playing with a quickly destroyed cat toy. It was a good way to end the day as none of these animals showed distrust - they were happy in their surroundings and excited to see new people.

3 legged bobtail acrobat

It was a long and rewarding day. I also have never been more sweaty/dirty in my life so a shower when I got "home" was a-mazing. Tomorrow I should be allowed to walk the dogs in B2 and get to see their personalities shine in semi-freedom, for the ones that will tolerate it.

-Erin