Doi (Mt.) Suthep and Thanksgiving in Pai

OK, I'm going to admit it. Choosing a destination (AKA Chiang Mai) for more than a few weeks has made me relatively lazy and ruined the early morning motivation and momentum I had in Phuket.

About two weeks ago, in an attempt to break myself out of my non-routine, I walked about an hour west and caught a songthaew (a red truck type of "bus" system in Chiang Mai) up to the top of Doi Suthep, a jungle mountain that towers over the city.

There is a major temple there that you need to walk 300+ steps up to, giving the Howe St. stairs at home a run for their money.

The golden chedi up top is spectacular, though I'm not sure how it didn't blind my eyes in the penetrating sun.

There were hundreds of tourists adoring the temple and chedi up top. One side of the temple grounds provides an overlook of the city of Chiang Mai - one of the main reasons I came up here. I will definitely have to go back and see the temple for a sunset before I leave because the colors of the sky in the morning here are usually pretty incredible.

I think a favorite part of my trip to the mountain was when I walked back down the stairs at dusk. Suddenly there were neon lights illuminating the stairs and parts of the temple to guide your way back.

It was great to get a little bit out of the city, but I still needed a little bit more of a nudge to get back on track. Thailand always throws a mixed bag of coincidental and unexpected adventures (and people) my way to keep me on my toes. Kristin, a friend of my good friend Nick happened to be passing through Chiang Mai with her roommate Aaron, so we met up and explored the city by foot and bicycle. When they mentioned that they were going to head to Pai for Thanksgiving, I asked to tag along, and I'm so glad that I did.

Pai is about 3 hours north of Chiang Mai by minibus, and the road boasts an impressive 762 curves.

I was amazed to see that there was some type of pine tree thriving at the highest point of our drive. It's hard for me to believe when it's usually 86 degrees in Chiang Mai, but the temperature can drop to below freezing in the mountains.

Once in Pai, we found a bungalow to stay at and quickly exhausted the options of the town itself. Pai is a pretty small and hippie-centric town, though it has developed a lot over the past 10-20 years. The allure of Pai for me isn't really the town itself, but the endless options for exploration, using Pai as home base.

After eating (2 meals for me - soup followed up with pizza, happy Thanksgiving! ;), we connected with a group of Dutch guys that Aaron had met in Vietnam. It was at that time that we decided the best option for the next day was to form a small motorbike gang and take on the countryside of Pai.

I was excited to get some practice with a group of more experienced riders, and to break out of my comfort zone a little. It was beyond worth it and opened my eyes to a whole new world of travel.

We were only on the road for about 3 minutes when we had to pull over to take pictures from a gorgeous viewpoint. I found myself smiling uncontrollably as we rode off to our next unknown destination.

We set out originally to find some hot springs, but ended up at a "trailhead" for a waterfall. Unfortunately after walking about 10 minutes down the river, we discovered that there was no land trail that anyone could find, and we would have to continue up the river about 2-3 hours to reach the waterfall.

Some of us didn't bring a change of shoes (and the hike would have probably left us walking back in the dark), so we turned around and got back on our motorbikes.

We found a national park with hot springs. After haggling (OK, we showed them our driver's license and they thought it was a student ID), we got into the park for a less obnoxious fee. "Farangs," aka white tourists/expats consistently are charged more for services, but I don't mind paying to support the parks. :)

We headed in and found the multi-tiered hot springs, each pool hotter than the next as you approached the source.

I had a worry in the back of my mind because Darryl told me Axle wasn't acting normal (spoiler alert: he's fine, thank god!), so after we grabbed some dinner I went back to our guest house so I could keep in touch.

Aaron and Kristin left the next day to go to a monastery at Mae Hong Son (even further northwest) for 3 days, where they meditated with monks, as well as fasted for 20 hours a day.

I decided I would head back "home" to Chiang Mai so I could keep tabs on Axle as I wasn't sure whether I'd be able to keep in touch via cell phone if I went to the monastery. It turned out that Axle was fine, but I'm still glad I went back. It feels terribly helpless to know something might be wrong when you are thousands of miles away.

The rest of this week I've spent trying to prep for my next big adventure, with a friend (Eric) from my hometown who happens to also have left his life in Seattle to travel the world. We leave this morning - it's 66 degrees out and I'm freezing, which is very confusing.

What's the plan? A very loose 2 week itinerary involving touring the Thai countryside via motorbike. I promise I'll be safe, cautious and focused on the road, but I would have some serious regret if I didn't take this opportunity. Every account I have read has said that motorbiking (they are 125cc scooters honestly, ha!) the north is the best decision they made while in Chiang Mai.

So here we go... no reservations made, just on the open road and taking it day by day.

-Erin

Full set of photos from Wat Doi Suthep here.
Pai here.
And another mini temple exploration I didn't blog about - here.

A Day In the Life Of...

The thought of weeding through/uploading photos from the past week sounds a bit taxing (LIFE IS SO HARD) , so I thought it would be fun to switch it up and do a post about the everyday things in Thailand that I have (somewhat) become accustomed to.

Here we go, in no particular order!

...Interesting Bathrooms
I have had pretty standard bathrooms where I've stayed so far, though it still took me some time to get used to the layout. This is especially because there is no bathtub/barrier between the shower/toilet/sink.

My super fancy bathroom in Chiang Mai

This means that everything (like the toilet) end up soaked after a shower. I at least have what is called a "western toilet," which is what we are all used to back in the good old US. The only difference here is that you have to throw your toilet paper away as garbage due to septic issues.

There's also another hose (not in this picture, it's to the left of the toilet), lovingly labeled the "bum gun" by an Australian blog I found when I googled "What is that hose for next to my Thai toilet?"...

It's pretty much a more portable bidet, but you have to be careful about the varied water pressure between bathrooms. Eek!

Then you have your standard Thai toilet, i.e. a "squat toilet," which is pretty much a hole in the ground. Apparently these are very good for your body physically speaking, and there is no flushing mechanism, so you have to shovel water into it for a manual flush.

These toilets are very common in less touristy places. If you luck out and find a western toilet, it's probably going to be covered in water (well, it just seems like all surfaces in bathrooms end up covered in water). This means that I have learned to not sit down on toilets when I'm away from home!



Crazy Roads and Drivers
Driving on the left side of the road was easy enough to get used to, but I'm still adjusting to how recklessly people drive. Part of the problem is inexperienced tourists on a rental bike. Scooters are also the primary form of transportation for Thais, who zip in and out of mass traffic, rarely wearing a helmet. Sometimes you'll see an entire family crowded onto a scooter. Once I saw one packed with 6, including 2 children and one baby.

Unfortunately I haven't been able to snap any of these ridiculous events, so this photo will have to do.

Think you've got the green light at the crosswalk? Think again. Always look five times before you cross, as it seems like at least one lane of traffic isn't paying attention, or just doesn't care. I am still working on being as brazen as some Thais I've seen crossing highways with no crosswalks.

There are also some very windy mountain roads. I took a minibus to and from a city called Pai for Thanksgiving, and there are 762 (many sharp) curves along the way, almost causing quite a few army boys to barf.

The road statistics speak for themselves, but I wont spit them out here because I don't want it to scare anyone away from choosing their own mode of transportation. Just educate yourself and remember you have to focus about 1000x as much as you do in the states. It's a stunningly beautiful country to explore, and there is no freer way to do it than on your own terms.

Cost of Living
One of the top reasons I came to SE Asia was because I knew I could get much more bang for my buck than most places on the planet. Prices listed here are from Chiang Mai, which is a bit less expensive than Phuket was.

My concept of money has been completely warped, where sometimes I'll fight with a tuk tuk driver over 20 cents, then later that day spend $5 on an entree. Generally speaking, when away from the more touristy restaurants, I can leave spending less than $2-3 for a meal plus a non-alcoholic drink. For example, this bowl of delicious soup I had tonight cost $1. (PS I'm pretty sure I just found my new favorite noodle soup spot).

I followed it up with a GIGANTIC smoothie, made out of the water/meat of an entire fresh coconut, a whole mango and a quarter of a pineapple for $2.

What isn't (relatively) cheap is alcohol. In a restaurant you'll spend around $4 on a cocktail or large Thai beer, which is a lot when it's 2-3x as much as your food. You can find it for a little cheaper at a store, but in relation to the cost of other things, it's not very affordable.

The government also has imposed restrictions on when alcohol can't be sold at a store, which is between 2-5pm and midnight-11am, though this is only really enforced at major chains.

I paid about $300 for a month at my guesthouse - I have a queen sized bed, private bathroom, fan, TV, fridge, wardrobe, desk and a deck. I could even find cheaper accommodation, or pay a couple extra dollars a night for air conditioning.

I used to feel weird using a laundry service, but at about $1.30/kg for someone to wash/dry/iron your clothes, I have given in. This translates to about $2-3 a week.

Want a full body Thai massage? $6/hour. Seriously.

Beauty Standards and Sex Tourism

When I first got here, I was shocked at how many beauty products contain whitening agents. Sunscreen? Check. Deodorant? You bet. Shaving Cream? Of course. Having white, milky skin is an aspiration for women, which is quite the opposite of the tan obsessed American culture. I fear what would happen if I started using these products as I am very pale already. As my friend Kim said, "Girl, you'll turn see through."

The reality of the societal construct makes me sad. Thai women and their natural skin color are so beautiful to me. I understand proactive measures for protection, but dislike the thought of changing what is natural, which is also an issue in communities of color in the US.

Then there's Thailand's very public sex tourism problem. There are bars that line the streets of Chiang Mai full of young Thai women flocked around (usually much older) male tourists, either there to find a wife or a prostitute. I try to not judge when I see this "type" of pair walking down the street because I know that a) some of them are completely normal and/or b) there are people who come to Thailand (or any country) and fall in love without planning or fetishizing it. But there is a harsh reality to why some people visit, which is especially hard to ignore when you see great grandpa walking down the street hand in hand with an 18 year old.

There's also the fascinating arena of ladyboys (in Thai they call it "kathoey")... some of who are so convincing I can't even tell that they aren't "real" women, whatever that means. I've always been fascinated by human sexuality and kathoey doesn't fall into the "standard" definitions of trans, so I can't wait to get more exposure as I travel. Outside of the realm of sex tourism of course.

And then finally there are two subjects I wont even broach - ping pong (and other various object) shows and pedophilia. Yikes. I haven't witnessed either (unless the women noted above are below the age of consent) so I don't want to comment.

Political Activism
Though America has a considerably larger population spread over a MUCH larger area, I think we could learn a bit from the power of Thai protest. I'm not talking about overthrowing the current government, but more being able to band together and not back down to pressure in order to make change.

In 2006 it was top news worldwide when there was a coup in Thailand as they ousted the government and former Prime Minster, Thaskin Shinawatra. The country is divided into two, with large protests in 2010 and oh yay, right now. I only have a slight grasp on the current conflict, but the current Prime Minister (Yingluck Shinawatra) is Thaskin's sister, therefore it is thought that she is her brother's puppetmaster and the same people are still in power. Her party recently tried to introduce an amnesty bill to bring Thaskin back into the country (he's currently out of the country to avoid a jail term) and this re-sparked tensions.

I hear that tourists haven't been impacted by the main protests in Bangkok, and recently polled Thai's noted that their largest complaint/concern right now is the traffic it is causing. 23 countries have issued travel warnings about travel to Thailand, but I'm really not sweating it. I will keep a close eye on it when I go to Bangkok next month - just always be vigilant and educated, and I think you will stay a safe traveler. Just don't wear any red or yellow shirts right now in Bangkok or you could be viewed as a supporter of either side.

----

There's of course a lot more that's unique about being here and so many other facets of the culture and language I haven't touched on or experienced. I sadly haven't picked up much Thai yet (sorry dad), but it's beyond complex.

What hasn't changed is that I can pretty much get anything here that I can get in the states - I am still amazed at the variety of cultures restaurants cater to. Like, oh crap, I can still find amazing CAKE on the side of the ROAD.

And I even found Tree Top apple juice (where my mom works) in a tiny mini market in Phuket.

With all of this at my fingertips, do I want to come home? Hell yes! This makes me appreciate and miss home more than anything, but I can't wait to keep on exploring, learning and growing while I have the opportunity.

-Erin

Timeless Ko Lanta

I spent the last week on a beautiful island off the coast of Krabi called Ko Lanta.

Time is a strange thing on Lanta. The days seem to stretch into each other endlessly, but my week was also over before I knew it. If I asked anyone how long they had been on the island, it always took some hard thinking to really pinpoint what day it was and how far into their journey they were.

Ignore my poor plating... I added the sauce way too early!

When I arrived, I made my way to Oasis Yoga and felt at home, even though I am a quite inexperienced student. I feel short of my five class goal, but as noted... time gets away from you on Lanta.

The first five nights I stayed at Time For Lime, which had amazing bungalows and a beachfront restaurant/cooking school. I am so glad I did the cooking class - all proceeds from the class, and from my understanding the restaurant/bungalows go back to Lanta Animal Welfare, which is run by Time's owner, Junie.

The food was delicious, and I learned a lot - for example, Thai curry is different than Indian curry because they use fresh ingredients to make it instead of dry spices. I also learned that the level of spiciness of curry can be tailored to your tastes (mine - timid, Darryl's - not) and as a result, I have a newfound love of red curry.

Fresh, simple ingredients are such a delight to photograph

What my plate should have looked like

The next day, a very kind woman I met at Soi Dog (Kajta), who coincidentally lives on Lanta, welcomed me along to her family's Sunday ritual at Somewhere Else - a confusing name to an outsider, but it's a restaurant with beachside salas and epic relaxation. Katja and her family are from Sweden and she is the reason I ended up at Oasis Yoga. Two other very sweet girls, Jana and Gen, who I met at cooking class joined as well.

Jana/Gen extended their hospitality into next day, when we rented scooters and explored the island. We managed to escape our explorations unscathed, which I can't say for everybody I met on the island.

The next day my new friends made their way to Bangkok, and I packed up my belongings. At no fault of Time For Lime's, there was a bar nearby that had ridiculously loud bass playing at all hours, so I couldn't sleep (sign #1 that I am old). I irrationally decided it was a good time to move into a treehouse hostel, called Chill Out House, thinking I was staying at one of the bungalows behind the hostel.

It turned out I booked a private room in the main hostel.. At this point I came to realize how old and out of place I felt.

All signs pointed to awesomeness, or so I thought

I think I'm generally an outgoing person, but I just didn't feel like I fit in. Almost everyone was in their early 20s and while I tried to connect, I couldn't seem to succeed, outside of with a handful of people who extended themselves to me. I didn't have an issue with younger people at any other point in this trip, but this just felt more insular for whatever reason, which was possibly all made up in my head.

I moved into the bungalow (that I thought I initially had booked) for the next two nights and continued to try to make friends. I decided it was OK to continue to branch out on my own and made a trip Lanta Animal Welfare.

It was so nice to see their operation and all the volunteers (who have to make a month minimum commitment and live on site) caring for the animals. I tried my hardest to not fall in love, but it's impossible. I even watched a live sterilization!

For my last full day on Lanta, I signed up for a 4 island boat tour, and while the snorkeling wasn't as impressive as my first outing, there were other parts that more than made up for it.

The first place I was really excited for was Emerald Cave. So.. it was really cool..

but OH MY GOD, the water there was teeming with thousands of jellyfish eggs, which was a huge issue because A) I do not like being in close proximity of jellyfish, which is probably why I've never explored becoming an expert diver and B) I had no idea if they could hurt me. I later found out they are harmless, but I don't think that would have made the temporary nightmare any better.

I made it about halfway into the cave, had a secret panic attack, and swam like hell back to the boat.

ohmygod get me out

Why am I such a baby

I'm sure some of you will be like "Oh cool, jellyfish babies, that's harmless," but there were so many I was hitting at least 5-10 with every swim stroke.

Emerald Cave - 1, Erin - 0.

I did not share my panic or fear with anyone on the boat, and another woman made me fill silly as she picked the eggs up out of the water and squished and played with them. Ugh.

Then we made it to our last destination and my favorite place - a place I want to take Darryl to when he comes to visit, even though there is probably nothing to do besides snorkel, eat and drink.. but that sounds like a great place to catch up.

It's called Ko Ngai; there are no roads on the island, and it is picture perfect. Also because it is only accessible by smaller boats, it's not as touristy.

Again, this is the Thailand I have seen in my dreams.

In reflection, I made some great new friends on Lanta, but also at a point felt completely awkward and like I didn't belong. Even on a beautiful island, away from everything, you can feel doubts and miss home horribly. These are all feelings I have to look at as necessary - as one lovely person pointed out to me, it's a good sign to miss home/friends/family, because it means you have something nice to go back to.

Full set of photos here.

**Edit, I forgot to note an amazing trivia night I went to with Jana and Gen on Monday night at the Irish Embassy (yes, that's the name of the bar). We were impressed that we managed to come in 6th place, Jana was not as impressed that her 3 ciders cost 660baht.

-Erin